And make sure you go to Little Betty's tea rooms on Stonegate (it's older and prettier than the larger Betty's, it used to be known as Taylor's and belonged to the tea company). Do not be put off by the line, it moves fast.

I once went there with a woman I was besotted with, and we found ourselves taking tea with two elderly women who had lived together ever since they met at Leeds university in 1921. They wore gloves and hats, and were ever so ever so genteel. And they new exactly what we were and we knew what they were. It's that kind of place.